Walk the perimeter — what to look for
Vertical streak marks down the wall below a joint = the gutter is overflowing at that point. Don't wait for damp inside.
Plants growing out of the gutter line = soil-level blockage. Moss runoff from the roof feeds the seeds.
Sag between brackets, especially mid-run = water is pooling, not draining. Brackets corrode and pull out within 1–2 winters.
Drips from a downpipe joint while it's raining = a partial blockage further down the system.
The 5-minute downpipe test
Run a hose into the gutter at the highest point. Watch each downpipe outlet at ground level. Strong flow = clear. Trickle = partial blockage. Nothing = fully blocked.
If nothing comes out, the blockage is usually at the shoe (bottom bend) or where the pipe enters the underground drain. Both are easy fixes when caught early.
When to book a professional clear
Once a year is enough for most Scottish homes — best timing is late September or early October, after most leaves have fallen but before the heavy October rains.
Twice a year if you have overhanging trees, conifer hedges within 5m of the house, or a moss-affected roof. The second visit should be in March after winter moss die-back.
Don't leave it until December. A blocked gutter in a hard frost cracks the gutter run itself, and replacement uPVC fitted in January costs three times an autumn clear.
What a proper autumn clear includes
Every run vacuum-cleared from the ground — front, back, sides, garage.
Each downpipe flushed and confirmed flowing.
Pole-mounted CCTV before/after footage so you actually see the work done.
Visual check on fascias and soffits for damp or rot — flagged with photos, not invented to upsell.